18 Comments
author

Hello Kate,

I completely agree with you. What I meant is that Emily in Paris still sells an idea of being a Parisian woman even if it means not assimilating at all. The character looks and way of perceiving her life in Paris is all so exaggerated and I believe it is part of the fantasy some actually have of living in Paris.

But I am also thinking of the myriads of newsletters popping here about being American and living in Paris and I sometimes giggle at reading how they view as you clearly see they are still seeing Paris as a postal card or have very strong reactions when Paris doesn't meet their imagination. There was a piece on Farrah Storr's newsletter about influencers moving to Paris for the aesthetic and I really I cackled because moving to any place requires much more than romanticizing it.

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I'm visiting my mom right now and I just asked her what does she think Americans who visit Paris are most surprised by and she said what a multicultural city it is, which I 100% agree!

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author

I think Americans visiting Paris are surprised because this is not what is marketed about Paris and France in general. It is funny though because my Italian friends would say to me that they see France as an example of multiculturalism, and each time I have to explain them to look at where they see non-white people, what work they do, etc. Just to make them realise it is not because you see more of us that it is real multiculturalism. All this to say that from country to country, the perception of France's multiculturalism changes a lot because of geographical and historical reasons.

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All those newsletters are written with no irony either which is the funniest thing about them. Le sigh. I need to read Farrah’s newsletter.

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It is unfortunately under a paywall, but what is available to read is still worth it: https://farrah.substack.com/p/the-lonely-curated-life-of-the-fashion

I know, haha.

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Influencers tik-toking their soufflés is brutal

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author

I know, right? Also moving to a whole new country just for content is pure madness to me.

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Jul 11Liked by Emmanuelle Maréchal

Love this. But a quick thing about Emily in Paris: Emily feels very American to me in the most obnoxious way. She has absolutely no interest in assimilating and she is lives without shame. For all the ridiculous things about the show, that aspect of her character seems pretty universal to Americans abroad. Also that they made her a social media influencer is hilarious. Like even Carrie on SATC was a writer and that gave her depth. But sweet, dumb, tacky Emily.

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Alaia shepherded and hosted the debut of Naomi Campbell's career and she said she would have been lost without him as a teenager in Paris and a stunningly beautiful black model.✨

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I know she called Alaïa “papa.” He was such a fascinating character and seemed to be a beautiful human being, too.

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Very much so the Moroccan who came up from the immigrant ranks to dominate Haute Couture for decades🩷🌸

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Jul 10Liked by Emmanuelle Maréchal

To answer your question at the end - late Azzedine Alaia & Olivier Rousteing are the only ones that came to my mind straight away

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You’re right. There are also the Cameroonian designer Imane Ayissi who is, if I am not mistaken, the only African in the Haute Couture Week calendar, and Ivorian stylist, consultant, and creative director Jenke Ahmed Tailly. In the modelling world there were Noémie Lenoir, and now there’s Cindy Bruna, but she mainly works in the USA. She’s a former Victoria’s Secret angel.

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Jul 10Liked by Emmanuelle Maréchal

I will be honest, unfortunately I haven't heard of either Imane or Jenke. Noemie is gorgeous. Tina Kunaki has been getting a lot of spotlight - and continues to be featured, as she is a beautiful woman. There are lots of black models now - British Vogue features them heartily and regularly

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author

That's the point. Imane Ayissi and Jenke Ahmed Tailly have been in this industry at least for two decades, yet nobody talks enough about their work.

I completely forgot Tina Kunakey because I don't even remember her on a catwalk or a campaign.

British Vogue has been doing great effort, but many Black fashion creatives and models we hear about are all anglophones, not from other parts of the world. I sincerely think it is problematic to lack such diversity because it creates the idea Blackness is a monolith.

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that is a great shame, truly. You don't feel that things are changing at all in that respect? I completely agree with you about Pharrell by the way - they couldn't find anyone else to replace Virgil? To me that was a slap, not a clap

I think she does Jacquemus shows and does front campaigns...

You have a point but I think there are now quite a few black models who are regularly featured - Adut Akech, AnokYai, Lineisy Monteiro, Malika. The thing with models there are always very few that are used so often that people start recognising them by their first name. To me Gigi and Kendals - no disrespect to them personally - are just lucky, but they never draw my gaze.

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author

Hello Galina,

I'll post something in chat to answer your question 😉.

LVMH's goal is to make money and dominate the industry to be honest, so they'll take whoever will achieve that and Pharrell is their poster child for that.

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Pharwll is exactly that but I think an increased number of people frown upon such hires, as it does nothing for elavating genuine talent from non-celebrity background, nor does anything significant for evolution of fashion

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