I found this through Laura Reilly's recommendation and really enjoyed reading it, thank you. It offers a different perspective to much of the mainstream fashion discourse and is incredibly thoughtful and incisive. What I love about fashion writing is that it does always need to encompass what is happening in the world politically, culturally, economically, and maybe only now do we have the articulation to realise this and not sideline fashion writing and criticism as a 'women's activity' but something that impacts so many more people. And, the mention of just needing to let a designer take time -- we all have the expectation of immediacy (we'll all blame the internet again!) that it's understandable that everyone needs to be patient with Gucci because it is a tricky time. Loved the point about Prada focusing on its Fondazione Prada during that period too. Fashion brand-building is a long game, not just about the season.
Love this interview, so good to read something that reflects more the trends, money, likes and cool! You talk about fashion from beyond the system. You put a touch of humanity, something I really think we all are missing these days. TYSM and waiting for part 2.
Love this interview and it's so true that critics can no longer simply critique the designs from a cultural/design aspect, but they must also consider the economics and the ethics of production, given that fashion is now an industry. I think Robin Givhan at Washington Post is especially skilled at discussing the sociopolitical aspect of fashion while still focused on critiquing the collections; perhaps we need more like her! I miss Sally Singer's take on the collections, which were published in Vogue US months after the collections had been shown; they felt deeper, less reactionary and better contextualised.
Thank you for your comment, and I am glad you loved the interview.
I absolutely agree that Robin Givhan is one of the few journalists who is skilled in that sense. I believe I read somewhere she would step back a little from writing about fashion to focus on more sociopolitcal stories. The most interesting people writing about fashion either never studied fashion journalism but humanities, or are like Dean Kissick. Though I believe studying fashion journalism is useful, I don't necessary think it's the best because it gives a mental structure and way to approach it that is quite rigid.
You've just taught me something about Sally Singer and Vogue US. And it proves Silvia's point, we all need time to process, digest and then elaborate a point of view.
I'm excited for part 2! I think it's interesting her note about how fashion criticism needs time... I do do enjoy a reading a critic's first impressions, whether harsh or not (I do really enjoy rachel's washington post pieces) but I think both amy's interview and this one does make me question what value a fashion critic brings to the broader fashion landscape out side of the views/clicks form a "harsh" review.
Her note on fashion needing time is so true! If we observe the fashion cycle with everything we are bombarded with, I believe criticism made on the spur of the moment and criticism that needs time are both valid.
Mmh, I'd argue that like Silvia said in the interview classic fashion criticism may need to look at what people are hungry for about fashion, whether it is knowing about fashion outside of the Occident or looking at it with a more social point of view, etc. You know something that would make it even interesting for people not interested in it, like everyone knew about the Supermodels even without knowing much about fashion.
What I think about fashion criticism is that, despite it feeling less relevant now, in 10 or 20 years of time people will be hungry to reading reviews just like we are so obsessed with Supermodels and fashion in the 90s and 00s because I'd dare say we haven't seen a golden era like we saw twenty or thirty years ago, yet major changes are shaking it.
Sorry for the long answer, but your comment really made me want to go deep!
I love the long comments, your responses are so engaging! Yes, I did love her words on expanding fashion outside of the west (nyc, ldn, milan, paris). Perspectives like these are why I love your substack so much, it makes me realize that my frame of reference isn't as broad as I'd like and gives me ways to expand it. It's so interesting to think in a decade or so that someone will be using this interview as a reference for how our time thought of and engaged with this!
I am always hoping to have great conversations and it means a lot to me that you are coming here to have a broader view of fashion.
I am as curious as you to see where we will be in 10 years time, and how people will react reading articles about how fashion needs to not be only Eurocentric.
I don't dare thinking of some using this interview as a reference, but it would be both humbling and rewarding!
Oh my God! Shout out to Dean Kissick who was Deputy Editor at i-D and gave me my first internship there! And what a great piece! I’m going to be re-reading this for sure, such interesting insights.
Hello ' journal i am a european passionate of cultural fashion ... nice idea salute ! ✌
I found this through Laura Reilly's recommendation and really enjoyed reading it, thank you. It offers a different perspective to much of the mainstream fashion discourse and is incredibly thoughtful and incisive. What I love about fashion writing is that it does always need to encompass what is happening in the world politically, culturally, economically, and maybe only now do we have the articulation to realise this and not sideline fashion writing and criticism as a 'women's activity' but something that impacts so many more people. And, the mention of just needing to let a designer take time -- we all have the expectation of immediacy (we'll all blame the internet again!) that it's understandable that everyone needs to be patient with Gucci because it is a tricky time. Loved the point about Prada focusing on its Fondazione Prada during that period too. Fashion brand-building is a long game, not just about the season.
Love this interview, so good to read something that reflects more the trends, money, likes and cool! You talk about fashion from beyond the system. You put a touch of humanity, something I really think we all are missing these days. TYSM and waiting for part 2.
Love this interview and it's so true that critics can no longer simply critique the designs from a cultural/design aspect, but they must also consider the economics and the ethics of production, given that fashion is now an industry. I think Robin Givhan at Washington Post is especially skilled at discussing the sociopolitical aspect of fashion while still focused on critiquing the collections; perhaps we need more like her! I miss Sally Singer's take on the collections, which were published in Vogue US months after the collections had been shown; they felt deeper, less reactionary and better contextualised.
Hello Lin,
Thank you for your comment, and I am glad you loved the interview.
I absolutely agree that Robin Givhan is one of the few journalists who is skilled in that sense. I believe I read somewhere she would step back a little from writing about fashion to focus on more sociopolitcal stories. The most interesting people writing about fashion either never studied fashion journalism but humanities, or are like Dean Kissick. Though I believe studying fashion journalism is useful, I don't necessary think it's the best because it gives a mental structure and way to approach it that is quite rigid.
You've just taught me something about Sally Singer and Vogue US. And it proves Silvia's point, we all need time to process, digest and then elaborate a point of view.
I'm excited for part 2! I think it's interesting her note about how fashion criticism needs time... I do do enjoy a reading a critic's first impressions, whether harsh or not (I do really enjoy rachel's washington post pieces) but I think both amy's interview and this one does make me question what value a fashion critic brings to the broader fashion landscape out side of the views/clicks form a "harsh" review.
Hello Em,
Her note on fashion needing time is so true! If we observe the fashion cycle with everything we are bombarded with, I believe criticism made on the spur of the moment and criticism that needs time are both valid.
Mmh, I'd argue that like Silvia said in the interview classic fashion criticism may need to look at what people are hungry for about fashion, whether it is knowing about fashion outside of the Occident or looking at it with a more social point of view, etc. You know something that would make it even interesting for people not interested in it, like everyone knew about the Supermodels even without knowing much about fashion.
What I think about fashion criticism is that, despite it feeling less relevant now, in 10 or 20 years of time people will be hungry to reading reviews just like we are so obsessed with Supermodels and fashion in the 90s and 00s because I'd dare say we haven't seen a golden era like we saw twenty or thirty years ago, yet major changes are shaking it.
Sorry for the long answer, but your comment really made me want to go deep!
I love the long comments, your responses are so engaging! Yes, I did love her words on expanding fashion outside of the west (nyc, ldn, milan, paris). Perspectives like these are why I love your substack so much, it makes me realize that my frame of reference isn't as broad as I'd like and gives me ways to expand it. It's so interesting to think in a decade or so that someone will be using this interview as a reference for how our time thought of and engaged with this!
Oh thank you! You made my day with your comment!
I am always hoping to have great conversations and it means a lot to me that you are coming here to have a broader view of fashion.
I am as curious as you to see where we will be in 10 years time, and how people will react reading articles about how fashion needs to not be only Eurocentric.
I don't dare thinking of some using this interview as a reference, but it would be both humbling and rewarding!
Oh my God! Shout out to Dean Kissick who was Deputy Editor at i-D and gave me my first internship there! And what a great piece! I’m going to be re-reading this for sure, such interesting insights.
Oh you worked with la crème de la crème!
I am glad you loved the interview, wait for Part.2 as I hope it will be as insightful as Part.1.