This Past Files was previously published in Italian on La moda, il sabato mattina, the currently paused newsletter by ex-Vogue Italia Senior Fashion News and now Gucci’s Head of Communication, Federica Salto. In her Pitch Perfect column, she allowed writers to write about a topic of their choice.
Hi Emmanuelle, than you for your answer :) Garance didn’t change her name to sell a certain myth.
I follow Garance almost since her beginning and she shared many times where the name Garance Doré came from.
There is a reason France don’t have “Black french icon” because the term “Black” is an american thing.
The concept of being a black person is an american thing because they are so obsessed with color (I will not say race because as a french and cameroonian) you know there is only one race = human race.
Most of black people in France or from Africa don’t identify as black.
They identify as their nationality and origins and not as just being black.
Because being black doesn’t really means anything when you are from Africa.
You become aware of being black when you go outside of Africa.
Ex : People from Africa or Asia in France will say “ I’m Senegalese, Malian, Nigerian….” or “ I’m french with senegalese, nigerian origins, ivoirian origins…”
Or i’m Chinese, I’m Cambodgian….
Or i’m french but my parents are from Cameroon, Senegal, Mali...
Hard to find someone from Africa or Asia in France identify as black or asian.
Same in Africa.
If i go to Cameroon i will say “ Oh i’m senegalese” and if I’m in Senegal since i’m senegalese i will share my ethnicity.
I know Garance being an illustrator first changed her name in reference to Gustave Doré and because she didn't want her real name to be known. I was also a reader of her blog since Day 1. This said, it is something to become the biggest French blogger internationally calling yourself Garance Doré rather than Mariline Fiori. It is part of the brand she's built (even if it wasn't intentional), and part of the reason it was appealing to many of her international audience. It's exactly like choosing to name your brand a certain way for the name to represent its ethos.
As for the term 'Black'. I think there needs to be nuance. If it is true that in Africa people define themselves by their nationality/ethnic group, it is also true that people are aware of the difference in treatment and privileges due to the skin tone. They might not say Black, but they easily say 'white' when it comes to Europeans or American people in their native languages. It is also true that going outside of Africa, it is when one realise they are Black. That is exactly why in my story I both mentioned the diversity in my family AND the fact that though I could understand I could be both French and Cameroonian, I couldn't understand why people couldn't grasp it until it was made clear to me that my complexion was the issue.
I will agree with you that using the expression 'Black French icons' wasn't the best, but I also think it can help give the idea to a foreign audience that it means having models to identify with or people in the media that had influence was hard to come by.
Everything you wrote is a whole different chapter that needs its own development for people to understand in my opinion. In a piece I wrote about Black History Month in France (and Europe) , I explained why I think it is a very American concept, just like the concept of Black joy. So it is not I don't understand what you are saying, but I'd rather write a whole story backed up by research.
ps: I see France as obsessed as America by colour and race but being in denial about it. It is just the context is different. If France wasn't obsessed with colour you wouldn't have had le Code Noir, la Police des Noirs, the fact we become Black in France, police checks based on people's skin colour, etc. The list is non-exhaustive.
Haircare is a no lesser mine field, even hairdressers privately admit that. And in my experience very few products "deliver' results when it comes to hair loss for example
I did, because it’s timely and it’s a sophisticated refutation of multiple stereotypes and fallacies (admittedly I am biased, I love everything you post 😉)
More and more people are starting to question it in France, and as you said it is timely now more and more people raise the questions of representation and race.
Wonderful sentiments... thank you for sharing. As a child of West Indian immigrants I’ve often wondered the same thing about what it truly means to be a New Yorker. What does the quintessential New Yorker look like? What makes them who they are... I’ll definitely be rereading this.
I am glad you could relate! What you said about being a New Yorker is so interesting as from my point of view, anyone could be one. But I'd like to hear more about your perception. I know you are yourself wondering what it is, but still, I am curious!
Thank you so much... I’ll be sure to share as more thoughts come to me!
Would love it if you checked out my Substack when you have some time... I’m new to the platform and sharing anecdotes and illustrations here and there and would love feedback ❄️✨
I was reading the comments after your interesting article and I was thinking it is funny and frankly quite sad that such a diverse species as ours insists in erasing difference as if it was a bad thing, when it ahould be embraced and celebrated. Europe in particular has a lot of growing up to do.
Regarding your article, the myth of the parisian woman is a construct that sells clothes, food, hotel nights, and something people love, an irreal aspirational ideal that is Impossible to fulfill. A while ago I saw a great video on YouTube where a group of French women who represent France's true diversity talked about the esthereotypes that reign and how they felt about them. I might have told you about it already, I'm thinking now... Anyway, as you say, it also has lots to do with promoting the fashion industry, particularly to american women. Emily in Paris, anyone??
About your writing, may I suggest whatever feels important to you? This is your space, recently I been reflecting that only thing that works is talking about what we care about so yes, if your family history is something that for you, we'll enjoy it.
That's why I think the concept of nationality is skewed because it is a social construct. If it is true that we speak different languages, look different, have different cultures and History, I believe it is more about identity than nationality. But in Europe we are dead focused on nationality.
As for the myth of the Parisian woman, it is exactly as you said! And nice you mentioned Emily in Paris, it is the embodiement of how people abroad fantasize about Paris, not France, and create their own image of a culture and country. And I believe Americans especially enjoy creating a Paris that is just stereotyped.
Thank you for the advice! I was actually asking because I am not too sure myself about how to share my family's story.
I really enjoyed the article! I’m from Latinoamérica and even here that happens. The first time I saw a black French it was surprising to me because I used to see only white ppl from France.
I want to know more about this topic or something similar 💛
It's a pleasure to read your comment as it confirms that what the media conveys is super important for representation inside and outside one's country.
I am glad to know you're interested in knowing more about that topic! I've got some pieces I am working on already on the topic!
It was interesting to read & reflect on this, especially with your examples of Caroline M & Garance who the more popular she became, the less Corsican & more French she ‘became’. I have also been thinking about Garance in the context of her skincare brand Dore that claims to be French-pharmacy but seems far removed to me as the Francofile since my childhood
Garance Doré could be a case study regarding the way she embodies and shows what Frenchness is vs. her Corsican upbringing.
About her skincare brand, she got all the press she needed at its launch, but I haven't heard of it being good or bad. On the IG page it feels like comments are very much filtered. I don't see the red thread with French-pharmacy brands, it feels like she just said 'hello I'm French and since I have now this skincare brand it is French too.' To me, it feels targeted to foreigners, not French people, that is maybe why you (and I) have that feeling that is far-removed from anything French.
I'm actually extremely unfussy when it comes to skincare, but I took a massive dislike to Garance's line - can't remember exactly why. Just that I was uncomfortable and couldn't wait to wash it off.
if you couldn't wait to wash it off and felt uncomfortable it simply means your skin didn't like it. Of course we are all different when it comes to skincare - what works for me, won't necessarily work for you - something I always point out as a beauty journalist, but I wasn';t particularly impressed with Dore products
You are right Emmanuelle, in the same way her Corsican roots intertwined with Moroccan heritage could have been such special, strong foundations for the skincare brand (I would have understoodif she did something with her talent for writing and illustration, but skincare?) and offered something unique to an oversaturated beauty marketplace. Instead there is a bland, unremarkable packaging and products that don't whisper "je suis francais/e et je rende homage aux tradicionnes pharmaciennes". it feels quite TK Max instead. I don't think she has won over Brits with it, but maybe she will win over America.
It's so moving to read how proud you are of your family, your roots, heritage and how all of it makes you feel so proud to be you. I guess not everyone feels such innate passion for who and where they come from...
Like you I was taken aback, to say the least, when she said she was doing a skincare line because it was never something she seemed to show interest in. Instead like you said it would have been more natural she leaned onto illustration, writing, or even designing clothes or shoes, but what do I know😂?
I don't even know if she's won any Brits with it, and I doubt she'll won over America,
Thank you so much for saying this! It means a lot. To be honest it has and still is a journey. I am already working on a piece about my relationship with my father to show it! Hope you'll enjoy it!
She lived in the US and in California at some stage, exploring some 'modalities' they had on offer and knowing that she struggled with her emotional state I would have understood if she ventured into that segment. her illustrations are beautiful and not to see her creative imprint in Dore was something that also surprised me - the packaging is just, well, dull. And it could have had her signature...
Noi, she hasn't won Brits with it, but she might win over some Americans in parts where she is known and people would give her name a benefit of the doubt. depends on how much money would be spent on influencer gifting and press PR.
Can't wait to read your writing about your relationship with your dad, bon chance!!!
Hey Irene! I am forever grateful and humbled when someone from another culture tells me they relate, this shows how universal our experiences are even though our background and the places we call home are different.
Hahahah don't worry I bought Garance's book and it even got it signed by her at the time! It's a journey to understanding one's identity. As for CDM, it was at a friend's house so I borrowed to know what she had to say.
It sounds like you had a beautiful family. It does make that book your referenced seem a little ridiculous in this context. I think the ideas could be pushed further
Thank you! I'm already working on another piece about growing up specifically with a white French dad. So please bear with me for when it'll be published.
And yes, there are ideas aplentu that could be pushed further, so I hope to do exactly this.
Thank you for sharing your story! As someone who grew up on the French chic/ Parisian woman myth, I admit it took me a very long time to understand why it was so problematic. And I should know better! I’m Chinese and born and raised in Singapore which has Chinese, Malay and Indian people, but growing up it was always mixed-raced models who could pass as white on the magazine covers-it was as if as a country we did not consider ourselves beautiful enough and we completely erased ourselves from media, or underwent plastic surgery to confirm to white standards of beauty. Myths like the “Parisian woman” may seem harmless to outsiders like me but I know better now...
I really enjoyed and learnt a lot from your story and would love more of such pieces if you decide it’s a direction that works for you :)
Thank you so much for your valuable and insightful comment about growing up in Singapore. I believe there is so much to say about how these fashion and beauty standards affect all of us, especially in places like Singapore or Shanghai whose History of colonialism is very much not known.
I have travelled to Japan, South Korea and Thailand, and I've been surprised to find in Japan and South Korea that even there the idea of Frenchness and more extensively Europeaness have an influence, like some brands would have names with French words whose association does not make sense, yet are used to give them a sophisticated feel.
I am really glad you enjoyed that piece. I am currently working on a new piece about being raised by a white French father, so I hope you'll enjoy it!
Some many gems in your article. Love your article!! Don’t agree with everything but love your perspective
Hello Dorine,
Thank you for your comment.
I am curious to know what you disagree with. It could make for an enriching conversation, so please feel free to tell me your point of view.
Hi Emmanuelle, than you for your answer :) Garance didn’t change her name to sell a certain myth.
I follow Garance almost since her beginning and she shared many times where the name Garance Doré came from.
There is a reason France don’t have “Black french icon” because the term “Black” is an american thing.
The concept of being a black person is an american thing because they are so obsessed with color (I will not say race because as a french and cameroonian) you know there is only one race = human race.
Most of black people in France or from Africa don’t identify as black.
They identify as their nationality and origins and not as just being black.
Because being black doesn’t really means anything when you are from Africa.
You become aware of being black when you go outside of Africa.
Ex : People from Africa or Asia in France will say “ I’m Senegalese, Malian, Nigerian….” or “ I’m french with senegalese, nigerian origins, ivoirian origins…”
Or i’m Chinese, I’m Cambodgian….
Or i’m french but my parents are from Cameroon, Senegal, Mali...
Hard to find someone from Africa or Asia in France identify as black or asian.
Same in Africa.
If i go to Cameroon i will say “ Oh i’m senegalese” and if I’m in Senegal since i’m senegalese i will share my ethnicity.
Hope what i wrote is clear :)
Hello Dorine,
I know Garance being an illustrator first changed her name in reference to Gustave Doré and because she didn't want her real name to be known. I was also a reader of her blog since Day 1. This said, it is something to become the biggest French blogger internationally calling yourself Garance Doré rather than Mariline Fiori. It is part of the brand she's built (even if it wasn't intentional), and part of the reason it was appealing to many of her international audience. It's exactly like choosing to name your brand a certain way for the name to represent its ethos.
As for the term 'Black'. I think there needs to be nuance. If it is true that in Africa people define themselves by their nationality/ethnic group, it is also true that people are aware of the difference in treatment and privileges due to the skin tone. They might not say Black, but they easily say 'white' when it comes to Europeans or American people in their native languages. It is also true that going outside of Africa, it is when one realise they are Black. That is exactly why in my story I both mentioned the diversity in my family AND the fact that though I could understand I could be both French and Cameroonian, I couldn't understand why people couldn't grasp it until it was made clear to me that my complexion was the issue.
I will agree with you that using the expression 'Black French icons' wasn't the best, but I also think it can help give the idea to a foreign audience that it means having models to identify with or people in the media that had influence was hard to come by.
Everything you wrote is a whole different chapter that needs its own development for people to understand in my opinion. In a piece I wrote about Black History Month in France (and Europe) , I explained why I think it is a very American concept, just like the concept of Black joy. So it is not I don't understand what you are saying, but I'd rather write a whole story backed up by research.
ps: I see France as obsessed as America by colour and race but being in denial about it. It is just the context is different. If France wasn't obsessed with colour you wouldn't have had le Code Noir, la Police des Noirs, the fact we become Black in France, police checks based on people's skin colour, etc. The list is non-exhaustive.
Haircare is a no lesser mine field, even hairdressers privately admit that. And in my experience very few products "deliver' results when it comes to hair loss for example
Love this, thank you!
I am glad you loved it!
I did, because it’s timely and it’s a sophisticated refutation of multiple stereotypes and fallacies (admittedly I am biased, I love everything you post 😉)
I am so flattered by your words! Thank you❤️!
More and more people are starting to question it in France, and as you said it is timely now more and more people raise the questions of representation and race.
You’re welcome, more people should and will - keep raising awareness!
Wonderful sentiments... thank you for sharing. As a child of West Indian immigrants I’ve often wondered the same thing about what it truly means to be a New Yorker. What does the quintessential New Yorker look like? What makes them who they are... I’ll definitely be rereading this.
I am glad you could relate! What you said about being a New Yorker is so interesting as from my point of view, anyone could be one. But I'd like to hear more about your perception. I know you are yourself wondering what it is, but still, I am curious!
Thank you so much... I’ll be sure to share as more thoughts come to me!
Would love it if you checked out my Substack when you have some time... I’m new to the platform and sharing anecdotes and illustrations here and there and would love feedback ❄️✨
Always love reading your writing!
Thanks so much for reading and appreciating my work!
I was reading the comments after your interesting article and I was thinking it is funny and frankly quite sad that such a diverse species as ours insists in erasing difference as if it was a bad thing, when it ahould be embraced and celebrated. Europe in particular has a lot of growing up to do.
Regarding your article, the myth of the parisian woman is a construct that sells clothes, food, hotel nights, and something people love, an irreal aspirational ideal that is Impossible to fulfill. A while ago I saw a great video on YouTube where a group of French women who represent France's true diversity talked about the esthereotypes that reign and how they felt about them. I might have told you about it already, I'm thinking now... Anyway, as you say, it also has lots to do with promoting the fashion industry, particularly to american women. Emily in Paris, anyone??
About your writing, may I suggest whatever feels important to you? This is your space, recently I been reflecting that only thing that works is talking about what we care about so yes, if your family history is something that for you, we'll enjoy it.
That's why I think the concept of nationality is skewed because it is a social construct. If it is true that we speak different languages, look different, have different cultures and History, I believe it is more about identity than nationality. But in Europe we are dead focused on nationality.
As for the myth of the Parisian woman, it is exactly as you said! And nice you mentioned Emily in Paris, it is the embodiement of how people abroad fantasize about Paris, not France, and create their own image of a culture and country. And I believe Americans especially enjoy creating a Paris that is just stereotyped.
Thank you for the advice! I was actually asking because I am not too sure myself about how to share my family's story.
Writing about family always feels messy... It's worthy, though.
I really enjoyed the article! I’m from Latinoamérica and even here that happens. The first time I saw a black French it was surprising to me because I used to see only white ppl from France.
I want to know more about this topic or something similar 💛
Hello Kristian!
It's a pleasure to read your comment as it confirms that what the media conveys is super important for representation inside and outside one's country.
I am glad to know you're interested in knowing more about that topic! I've got some pieces I am working on already on the topic!
Where are you from in Latinoamérica?
I’m from Venezuela but I’m Mexican too, so I live in Mexico City now 🥰
It was interesting to read & reflect on this, especially with your examples of Caroline M & Garance who the more popular she became, the less Corsican & more French she ‘became’. I have also been thinking about Garance in the context of her skincare brand Dore that claims to be French-pharmacy but seems far removed to me as the Francofile since my childhood
Garance Doré could be a case study regarding the way she embodies and shows what Frenchness is vs. her Corsican upbringing.
About her skincare brand, she got all the press she needed at its launch, but I haven't heard of it being good or bad. On the IG page it feels like comments are very much filtered. I don't see the red thread with French-pharmacy brands, it feels like she just said 'hello I'm French and since I have now this skincare brand it is French too.' To me, it feels targeted to foreigners, not French people, that is maybe why you (and I) have that feeling that is far-removed from anything French.
I'm actually extremely unfussy when it comes to skincare, but I took a massive dislike to Garance's line - can't remember exactly why. Just that I was uncomfortable and couldn't wait to wash it off.
if you couldn't wait to wash it off and felt uncomfortable it simply means your skin didn't like it. Of course we are all different when it comes to skincare - what works for me, won't necessarily work for you - something I always point out as a beauty journalist, but I wasn';t particularly impressed with Dore products
Yes! So true. Obviously the same thing happens when someone swears by a hair product - I have a completely different experience.
So you've tried her skincare! The fact you just remember the massive dislike isn't a great sign haha.
Yes! Not exactly a ringing endorsement and like I said, I’m not picky when it comes to skincare.
You are right Emmanuelle, in the same way her Corsican roots intertwined with Moroccan heritage could have been such special, strong foundations for the skincare brand (I would have understoodif she did something with her talent for writing and illustration, but skincare?) and offered something unique to an oversaturated beauty marketplace. Instead there is a bland, unremarkable packaging and products that don't whisper "je suis francais/e et je rende homage aux tradicionnes pharmaciennes". it feels quite TK Max instead. I don't think she has won over Brits with it, but maybe she will win over America.
It's so moving to read how proud you are of your family, your roots, heritage and how all of it makes you feel so proud to be you. I guess not everyone feels such innate passion for who and where they come from...
Like you I was taken aback, to say the least, when she said she was doing a skincare line because it was never something she seemed to show interest in. Instead like you said it would have been more natural she leaned onto illustration, writing, or even designing clothes or shoes, but what do I know😂?
I don't even know if she's won any Brits with it, and I doubt she'll won over America,
Thank you so much for saying this! It means a lot. To be honest it has and still is a journey. I am already working on a piece about my relationship with my father to show it! Hope you'll enjoy it!
She lived in the US and in California at some stage, exploring some 'modalities' they had on offer and knowing that she struggled with her emotional state I would have understood if she ventured into that segment. her illustrations are beautiful and not to see her creative imprint in Dore was something that also surprised me - the packaging is just, well, dull. And it could have had her signature...
Noi, she hasn't won Brits with it, but she might win over some Americans in parts where she is known and people would give her name a benefit of the doubt. depends on how much money would be spent on influencer gifting and press PR.
Can't wait to read your writing about your relationship with your dad, bon chance!!!
Bookmarked to return to. So relateable.
Hey Irene! I am forever grateful and humbled when someone from another culture tells me they relate, this shows how universal our experiences are even though our background and the places we call home are different.
I'm embarrassed to admit I actually bought CDM's book!
Hahahah don't worry I bought Garance's book and it even got it signed by her at the time! It's a journey to understanding one's identity. As for CDM, it was at a friend's house so I borrowed to know what she had to say.
It sounds like you had a beautiful family. It does make that book your referenced seem a little ridiculous in this context. I think the ideas could be pushed further
Thank you! I'm already working on another piece about growing up specifically with a white French dad. So please bear with me for when it'll be published.
And yes, there are ideas aplentu that could be pushed further, so I hope to do exactly this.
Thank you for sharing your story! As someone who grew up on the French chic/ Parisian woman myth, I admit it took me a very long time to understand why it was so problematic. And I should know better! I’m Chinese and born and raised in Singapore which has Chinese, Malay and Indian people, but growing up it was always mixed-raced models who could pass as white on the magazine covers-it was as if as a country we did not consider ourselves beautiful enough and we completely erased ourselves from media, or underwent plastic surgery to confirm to white standards of beauty. Myths like the “Parisian woman” may seem harmless to outsiders like me but I know better now...
I really enjoyed and learnt a lot from your story and would love more of such pieces if you decide it’s a direction that works for you :)
Hello Lin!
Thank you so much for your valuable and insightful comment about growing up in Singapore. I believe there is so much to say about how these fashion and beauty standards affect all of us, especially in places like Singapore or Shanghai whose History of colonialism is very much not known.
I have travelled to Japan, South Korea and Thailand, and I've been surprised to find in Japan and South Korea that even there the idea of Frenchness and more extensively Europeaness have an influence, like some brands would have names with French words whose association does not make sense, yet are used to give them a sophisticated feel.
I am really glad you enjoyed that piece. I am currently working on a new piece about being raised by a white French father, so I hope you'll enjoy it!